The four different ways in get you to three different areas of the lake. The lake is almost two miles long but very little of the shoreline is accessible. Two of the customary routes leave from Sawtooth Meadows which is where we camped Wednesday night. We took four llamas in with us, two old hands and two newbies that we wanted to get some experience. They all did great.
It was much colder than we expected the first night out. When we got up Thursday morning the llamas' water bowls had a solid half inch of ice on the top and the boys had a heavy coating of frost on their backs.
The plan was to leave the llamas grazing in the meadow while we went down the south trail to the lake to do a little fishing. As we gathered our gear to leave we noticed two hikers coming our way so we waited for them to arrive. Travis and Les are two young guys from Billings. They had hiked all the way in from the trailhead Thursday morning and were going down to Deep Lake for the first time. Since we were ready to go we all headed off together.
Of the four ways to the Lake I would have said the one we were traveling was the easiest - that was before this year. Now I would probably label it as the toughest. Earlier in the summer we went up from the bottom at Little Rock. Along the way we ran into a significant blow-down of trees that was likely a result of the fire several years ago and strong winter winds. That did not come close to comparing to what we faced out of Sawtooth. The trail was basically obliterated and the going was some of the worst I have ever traveled.
In the photo to the right you can see Travis hiking one of the very few clear sections of the route.
Looking over the lake from the lookout about half way down gives you an idea of the elevation you need to navigate to get there. Negotiating the cliffs is tough at the best of times. This year it is next to impossible.
Once down to the lake you can get a sense of how isolated it is by cliff walls on all sides.
The last 100 yards or so to the lake is a steep scramble. On the way back Ken was leading and I was just behind him with the two guys following closely. As I came up out of the steep bank from the lake I heard Ken say "stop - griz". Sure enough, I looked over and there was a large grizzly bear right on the trail, staring at us. Now we have had more than our share of bear encounters over the years and I was pretty sure the griz would hightail it as soon as the other two popped their heads up over the bank. The fact that she didn't - in fact she moved toward us - told us she was probably not alone and that we were in a bit of a predicament. Sure enough, one of the guys spotted the cub-of-the-year just behind mama, climbing over some of those trees that stood in the way.
We really had no choice but to try and go around the area where the bears were situated, taking us once again off trail and into unknown territory. We had a tense few minutes as mama bear followed us for a while, paralleling our tracks and keeping a close watch on us all the time. Eventually she must have figured we were not a threat because she and her cub backed off and we were able to continue on our way.
My advice to anyone wanting to travel to Deep Lake from Sawtooth Meadows this year would be "don't do it!" If you feel you must, then you really need to consider three things:
1) Travel as lightly as possible. Don't take along any extras unless they are necessary for survival.
2) Plan on taking about twice as long as normal to get down and back. There is no easy way to go and it all takes time.
3) Be comfortable navigating without a trail. Chances are you will not be able to see the trail and even if you can, you won't be able to travel on it.
I have to say I was really impressed with the two guys from Billings. I was bushed when we got back to camp and they still had to hike another 4-5 miles to their vehicle at the trailhead! It was great to have the extra company for the trek but I bet they won't want to hike with us again anytime soon!
Les and I had a great time! I would hike with you guys anywhere. Not a lot of people keep up with my pace and are willing to "go the extra mile" to get to solitary and peaceful locations. The lake was gorgeous and the fishing was great. Les and I safely made it back to the vehicle about 6 PM. We were drained out, but we were also glad we had finally completed a hike we have talked about for a while :: [Travis]
ReplyDeleteKathy I love reading your blogs. There is never a dull moment in your lives, and you take us with you on your treks. It is nice to hear about the griz from the safety of my armchair!
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteVery interesting. Hiking to Deep lake has always been a dream fishing spot for my dad who grew up in Cody, Wyo. We are planning to hike in for one night this weekend Sept 9/10th. We had heard the the original route was pretty bad, the trail heading off the parking lot below Gardiner Head Wall. We then heard about a horse trail that was better. They said to set up camp on the plateau and hike down to the lake. After reading your blog, i am wondering what you feel would be the best route if any. When exactly did you hike in? How many miles is it to Deep Lake and appox. how long do you think it would take to get there in one day? Wondering if the griz is still active in the area. humm. What you have written provides great insight; however any additional tips would help.
Thanks
What a great fall adventure! My opinion, for what it is worth, is that the horse trail from the top of the plateau, following Deep Creek down to the lake, is the only reasonable access right now. I do have to admit that I have not been on that trail this summer and I did hear there was some blow-down there as well but my understanding is that it is more significant for horses than hikers. That trail is steep but so are all the others going to Deep Lake. You will end up on the north side of the lake, closer to the east end. Our encounter with the grizzlys took place at the western tip so it is unlikely those two bears will be in the area you are heading, although you could certainly find others.
ReplyDeleteGood luck! I’d love to hear what you think of the trail if you don’t mind letting me know. My husband and I are both involved with Park County Search and Rescue and it is good to know which trails are accessible.
Kathy
Hi. We actually decided to not do this trail for an overnight. It seemed like there was not enough time to get down to the lake and fish in one day. We only had one night out planned. We are however curious about the trail condition and are planning a day hike into the area in the next couple weeks. If we end up going, I will update you with what we find. Thank you for your quick reply.
ReplyDeleteJenny
My brother and I have been to Deep Lake more times than any humans alive. We made a trip to the lake a minimum of once a week if not twice a week for ten years. We spent all of our summers for two months helping your parents operating Camp Sawtooth.
ReplyDeleteIn one of your pictures you show your ten pitched at what was the site of the Dude ranch.
The earth quake that was the result of the massive slide that formed Deep Lake must have been horrendous.
Living ever summer on the ranch were the best years of my life. I return to this area every summer to drink in the memories of what it was like to live two months in isolation for all electric and phones, it was historic.